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Posted

I've tried searching for this problem and the search function reveals nothing (in fact keeps telling me I'm searching using less than 3 characters or for html, img etc).

 

The problem started this morning, and easiest way to reproduce it is to take my foot off the accelerator let the car slow down a little and then accelerate again. There is a nasty clunk that reverberates through the chassis, you can even feel the clunk :) Other ways to reproduce the problem are to drive over the speed humps in my cul de sac which are the width of the road and as high as a small child or sometimes when just driving in the Tesco car park straight line newly surfaced tarmac...

 

I've replaced the drop links for the second time in 6 months with the expensive 'heavy duty' ones only 2 weeks ago and I still had the usual drop link noise, albeit not as bad.

 

I'm at wits end with this bloody car!

Posted

I had the same problem for past 10 months and problem was in absolutely dry joint (connection between hald shaft assemly and gearbox stub) as Mirez quoted above and the "clunk" is generated by movement in this dry joint. If you put a bit of grease in the joint, horrible noise should disappear and also you will prolong life of the connection. If you experience some steering wheel vibrations when driving around 50-70mph they could be also caused by worn joint.

 

George

Posted

Hi there jayton,

 

Something to check for your front control arm Wishbone trailing arm bush rubber failure.It will cause same clunk as the rubber has come away from metal spindle If the steering

is off centre that would be a pointer.As they take 2.5 ton of stress the bushs are only 6 pound each they can be hacksawed out and tapped in with large socket and hammer.

Posted

That's brilliant, thanks Mark.

 

hmmm when I changed the drop links, I'm sure I noticed red dust and just put it down as brake dust...

 

I'll have a search for checking the Engine Stabilizer bar, I'll get the shafts checked next weekend (only time I will have) as per the vid by Mark.

 

As it's only started would it be safe enough to drive it for the next week or so until I can confirm if it's the drive shaft or engine stabilizer? Seeing as George106 has had the same problem for the last 10months... ?

 

Friggen' good thing I already decided to put

Posted

Was giving the shed a tidy this afternoon and took a couple of snaps of a wishbone so you know what to look for this one still has rubber attached

most of the time you end up with metal cylinder complety detached causing clunking sound's

 

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_PdOMpb38CEw/TTxpFyFxuAI/AAAAAAAAASM/bbXw50jcayQ/S8000450.JPG

 

removed getting ready to replace

 

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_PdOMpb38CEw/TTxpGuISEdI/AAAAAAAAASU/FLi6aAPEfMY/S8000452.JPG

Posted

My nearside wishbone was replaced for the MOT, so I doubt it is that already.

 

I can't find the engine stabilizer on EKTA or on the usual sites I use for parts <_<

 

Anyone know roughly how much they cost?

Posted

My nearside wishbone was replaced for the MOT, so I doubt it is that already.

 

I can't find the engine stabilizer on EKTA or on the usual sites I use for parts <_<

 

Anyone know roughly how much they cost?

Try looking for 'Engine mount bracket'

Posted

My nearside wishbone was replaced for the MOT, so I doubt it is that already.

 

I can't find the engine stabilizer on EKTA or on the usual sites I use for parts <_<

 

Anyone know roughly how much they cost?

Try looking for 'Engine mount bracket'

 

May be they thought engine/gearbox bracket VW part number 7M3 399 201G .

Posted
Not something simple like a track rod end maybe, had to change two on mine recently sounds and feels similar to the drop links although tends to clunck when taking up drive, slowing and changing up and down box etc as well as bumps in road <_<
Posted

Thanks for all the advice so far, I assume when jacking the car up I only need to do one side at a time when checking for play in the components?

 

 

 

For my own reference, which may help others.

Track Rods,

Posted

Track rods turned up this morning and the mobile mechanic I use isn't answering his phone, I've left messages and nothing... so screw 'em. ^_^

 

The other garage I use can't do them till Wednesday now...

 

Are they hard to change? They quoted me 2 hours to change them @

Posted

Track rods turned up this morning and the mobile mechanic I use isn't answering his phone, I've left messages and nothing... so screw 'em. ^_^

 

The other garage I use can't do them till Wednesday now...

 

Are they hard to change? They quoted me 2 hours to change them @

Posted (edited)

QUOTE: They quoted me 2 hours to change them @ £80 +VAT.

<_< Bloody hell 2 hours, has this guy only got one hand then, have you checked them at all to see if there is any movment in them ? and does this price include the parts ?

As already mentioned make sure you get your tracking checked after

Edited by mikej
Posted

No Mike, he's got some monkey's in the form of apprentices <_<

 

Still cheaper than the other garages around here @

Posted
Having a chat with a mech-minded mate he's told me of an easier way to remove them without using a ball joint spliter :) requiring only to remove the lock nut and using a trolley jack, hammer and some spanners <_<

A whack with the hammer usually works, but you can't beat a good balljoint splitter when you get one that's stuck fast. ;)

Posted

jay have a play and see if you can adjust the track rods first, i think it will help you make you mind up to under take job .

If there seized its oxy torch to heat up then unscrew..... Redneck balljoint splitter is a 2.5 lb lump hammer not the commen house hammer <_<

Posted

I had the tracking done last year so they should have been loosened then right and hopefully not too tight now? <_<

 

I'll have a fiddle before I start undoing the lock nut and see if they're toight like a tiger or not. Knowing my luck they are as is everything on the damned car.

Going to swing by Focus and get a 4lb lumpy as the biggest I've got at the mo is 16oz I think :)

Posted

Going to swing by Focus and get a 4lb lumpy as the biggest I've got at the mo is 16oz I think :)

 

Don't knock the steering arm off the hub casting! <_<

 

I've seen it done!

Posted

Piece of P1ss to change :D dunno what all the fuss was about :) I'd rather change them than hand wash the car, probably quicker too :lol:

 

Calipers also changed and noticed the top mounts also need doing, just ordered them and will get a mechanic to change those sod changing them with my crap tool set.

Posted

noticed the top mounts also need doing, just ordered them and will get a mechanic to change those sod changing them with my crap tool set.

 

If it's really excessive movement in the top mounts you have noticed, that's completely normal when the car's weight is off the suspension.

Posted
Not just movement, but creeky noise when pulling/pushing the springs. I've replaced pretty much everything else on the front suspension bar the shocks and springs which are fine.

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